If you've spent any time on skincare TikTok or in the K-beauty aisle this year, you've met PDRN, often under the attention-grabbing name "salmon sperm serum". It has become one of the fastest-growing skincare searches in the UK. Here's what it actually is, and how far the evidence goes.
PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide: fragments of DNA. The original source, and the one behind most of the research, is the milt of salmon. In Korea, PDRN has been used for years in clinic injections ("skin boosters"), which is where its reputation for helping skin look plumper and more even comes from.
Skincare brands have since put PDRN into serums, creams and masks, and more recently launched vegan PDRN, also called plant or phyto PDRN, made from DNA fragments of plants such as rice, ginseng or green tea, or from microorganisms.
They are not the same ingredient. Vegan PDRN comes from different sources, and, as dermatologist Dr Rachel Ho points out in her review of the evidence, you can't assume that results seen with one source apply to another. There are no published trials comparing salmon and vegan PDRN head to head.
The reasons people choose vegan PDRN are straightforward: no animal-derived ingredients, and none of the "salmon sperm" factor.
This is where honesty matters, because PDRN marketing often runs well ahead of the research.
None of that means PDRN serums don't feel good or improve how skin looks. It means the claims should be modest: hydration, a smoother, fresher look, a nice texture. Be wary of any PDRN product, including ours, that promises clinic-level results from a bottle.
Our 0.3% Spicule PDRN Centella Serum is launching soon. It combines three things:
It's fragrance-free, vegan and made in the EU, and it'll be £34 for 30 ml. Because of the spicules, it's a first-step booster: apply to clean skin, then follow with your usual serum and moisturiser. If your skin is very sensitive or currently irritated, patch test first and start with a few uses a week.
You can't buy it yet, but you can join the waitlist on the product page to hear when it launches.
Polydeoxyribonucleotide: fragments of DNA. In skincare it is usually taken from salmon (salmon PDRN) or from plants and microorganisms (often labelled vegan or phyto PDRN).
No. They come from different sources and aren't chemically identical, and there are no published trials comparing the two directly.
Most of the strong PDRN research involves injections in clinics. Evidence for PDRN applied to the skin is much thinner, and for vegan PDRN it is mostly laboratory work so far. Treat PDRN serums as promising cosmetics, not proven treatments.
Bidens pilosa is sold as a gentle, plant-based retinol alternative. Here is what the research shows, where it falls short of retinol, and who it suits.
A trial of oral centella asiatica extract reported modest skin changes over 12 weeks. Here is what it found, and why an oral supplement study is not evidence for a topical serum.
Where each Norva product sits in a morning and evening routine, how to layer a serum under a cream without pilling, and the order for the Peptide Routine, the Barrier Reset Routine and Sensitive Skin Essentials.